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This is going to be my research blog, my inspirational blog and well, just about everything blog! Design Theory In Jewellery....

Friday, October 28, 2011

Writing Assignment - Thomas Mann and Tom Ferrero

Each one of these pendants, though similar in size are very different and comprise of differing techniques and materials. The first pendant, by Thomas Man titled chamber heart locket is hand made in Sterling silver, incorporating brass and acrylic.

The locket has an unusual opening and locking mechanism, using a chain with a toggle attached at the end, which clips though a loop which is attached to the back plate. The hinge made from brass is a contrast against the colder color of the silver, and this is highlighted even more by adding this to other aspects on the pendant, i.e. in the bale and on the inside of the lockets back plate.
  
Further detail has been added in the form of texture to the face of this locket by stamping, this looks to have been done before the piece was fly pressed into the slightly domed shape of the heart. The two pieces to this locket are then attached to each other using the hinge and are riveted together. An acrylic plate, cut to be inserted inside the locket to protect a photo when it’s placed in has two small brass stars to pull in the colors of the locket.

The lockets hinge appears to be able to “swivel” allowing the locket to move freely, without making it appear rigid. The other quality of this necklace/pendant is that the metal has not been highly polished, allowing the two metals to work together and be seen as individual colors, which can sometimes be lost when something has to much reflective surface.

The second piece, made by Tom Ferrero titled Phoenix necklace is made from 22kt and 18kt gold, as well as both fine and sterling silver. This pendant, although it appears to be very simple from a first glance, has lots of small details and a stone highlighting the reflective quality of the gold.\

The pendants main pattern on the front, even though not a literal depiction was conceived and designed on the story of the birth of the Phoenix. The pattern tells the storey of the phoenix, rising from the egg/fiery ashes, the bird erupting from the golden centre of the pendant, this is emphasized by the contrasting straight and triangular shape from the centre of the pendant, arriving to the brown Zircon stone beneath the bail.

Both of these pendants have similar qualities, both incorporating mixed materials, but both have their strengths and weaknesses. The pendant by Ferrero seems to have a very under-rated bail for using such expensive metals, even though this design allows for the piece to sit flat and without moving upon the wearer, it lessens the effect of the detail work. The Stone is set simply below the bail, central to the piece and with the space around the stone, makes it a feature. Where as in the pendant by Mann, the bail is free moving, which could possibly lead to the pendant spinning around and not sitting face forward on the wearer.

 The surface of the pendant by Ferrero is subtle in its design; this could have been attached by etching, but it unlikely because of the clean crisp edge. This pattern is repetitive, radiating from the centre around the circular shape of the pendant, and even without knowing the thoughts of the designer, is appealing to the eye.

Both pieces have a meaning, be it obvious or not. In the pendant by Ferrero, the design based on the storey of the phoenix, unless you have prior knowledge of the myth doesn’t make the piece lose its appeal, and the same goes with the pendant by Mann, the heart which is most commonly associated with the feeling of love can be seen as just that, or it can be personalized by adding a image of something/one personal.

Friday, October 7, 2011

4th Term Written Assessment - Oscar Abba

These works by Oscar Abba are at a first glance almost unrecognizable, but upon closer inspection this body of work uses many techniques, and is beautifully manufactured.
When looking upon these pieces they look heavy, and impractical to wear, but they actually have a lot of body/volume without being unsightly. In the bracelet Folds 2011 the folds are hollow constructed, making the piece lighter than it looks. The way the pieces are designed allows for a soft look, almost like ribbon or fabric draped into a shape. The spaces between the metal layers give an interesting play on the metal surface, some layers being highlighted whilst the others are cast into shadow. This is emphasized by the metal surface not having a highly polished finish. Each of the pieces also seem to start at a main point, and almost grow out to make the piece, picking up and an almost organic feel, even though some of the shapes within the bracelets are in fact quite crisp and linear. The appears to be no clear line of symmetry, but the design is still balance, in that no one side is heavier in appearance than the other.
On at least one of the bracelet designs (which is hardly seen) is a hinge and what seems to be a clasp, (maybe magnetic) giving a seamless look without making it a classically shaped bracelet/bangle. There is also quite a gentle sense of being able to follow all the individual forms round, which in its self seems to create a sense of movement. It’s the voids left in between the folds of silver that create the shape of a bracelet not a bracelet with a surface design added to it. It’s in this exploration of space that leads to the idea that you must look further into a design, not judge it by first glance, in these designs what looks like twisted scrap metal is actually a well thought out design with clever design features.